Day 21: The Erie Canal

Even warmer and more humid today (67 degrees in late morning, warming to the mid-70s by afternoon). I've grown accustomed to very cool, fall weather, so even in shorts and a t-shirt I was too warm today. Fortunately, my plan was to just explore close by and take it easy for a day.

I drove about 15 minutes to Lock 20 on the Erie Canal, located between Utica and Rome. The Erie Canal is one of the most historically significant transportation routes in the country, and quite an engineering marvel for its time as well. It was completed in 1825, well before the first railroads in America, and created an all-water link between New York City and Lake Erie (via the Hudson and Mohawk Valleys, which are the only natural lowland routes through the Appalachian Mountains). This allowed New York to prosper and become the most significant city on the eastern seaboard. It also fostered the settlement and growth of communities in the Mohawk Valley. The canal contains 36 locks over a distance of 363 miles, raising vessels hundreds of feet altogether. Lock 20 is located at the high point of the Mohawk Valley at an elevation of 420 feet. This area was originally a spot where they had to portage before the canal was completed.

Lock 20 is typical of the locks on the canal. About 44 feet wide and 300 feet long, it is actually a larger version of the original. Much of the canal was enlarged in the early 1900s to accommodate larger vessels. I was hoping to merely take some photos of the lock and canal and move on, but I timed it perfectly to see two small boats lock through. Afterward, the 60-year old lock operator, Gary, came over and we began visiting. When he found out I was from Oregon and had more than a passing interest in the locks, he said, "Follow me. I have some information I can give you."

I followed him to a building where he kept log books and other records. Gary very patiently answered all of my questions and volunteered plenty of information. He seemed genuinely pleased to have someone to show around. I was surprised how open he was and how much he let me see and do. I did everything but operate the controls! In fact, he took a photo of me standing at the controls on the upstream lock gate. I took photos of him as he operated the controls to allow another small boat to lock through, and Gary fully explained everything as he was doing it. He even opened panels to reveal the machinery at work so I could see it in operation when he opened the valves and gates. He was amazingly helpful, and it really made this geographer's day!

I only drove 10 miles altogether today, but three weeks into my journey, I have now logged 3,771 total miles.

The canal is smooth as glass when no boats are plying its waters.

A nice park is located at Lock 20.

Looking east from Lock 20.

Pedestrians can walk across the lower lock gate to go from the park to the walking/bicycle path on the other side.

The lock was filled to allow two boats to pass downstream (east).

Entering the lock.

Using a pole to keep his boat away from the side as the level drops.

A total drop of 25 feet.

Headed downriver.

Gary's log for Sept. 19th. I asked him how many boats typically lock through in a given day, and he said, "Why don't you just take a look through my logs?"

Equipment that opens the lock gate.

Equipment that opens the flow valve to fill the lock. Other locks, such as those at the Panama Canal and on the Columbia River, were modeled after the Erie Canal locks (the first in the U.S.).

Gary at the controls.

Operating the downstream controls.

The floating building is where maintenance workers on the canal eat and sleep.

The paved path was originally a dirt path for mules to walk on as they pulled boats and barges on the canal.